WATER LANE RESTAURANT REVIEW
This small wonderland is an "ongoing restoration project" from partners Ian James and Nick Selby (of north London's cult Melrose and Morgan delis; Alan Bennett in the foreword to their book, Good Food for Your Table - available at the on-site shop, folks - repeats its joke reputation as "Prada for the larder").
They call themselves custodians, not owners. Once inside the walled gardens, the restaurant turns out to be an open kitchen housed in sea containers, some chic garden furniture and a vast, snowy open-sided canvas sail by way of weatherproofing. (Come winter, it relocates to one of the conservatories:
Pelargonium House, I think.) It seems to have grown as organically out of the landscape as the fat, knobbly produce on sale at the shop.
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